Washing Machine Repair
Washers that will not drain, spin, fill or stay quiet, front-load and top-load, repaired in your laundry room.
DetailsMost electric dryer failures are cheap parts: a heating element, a thermal fuse, a belt or a roller. The part that matters most is often outside the dryer, in the vent run that made the fuse blow.
Updated October 2026

Electric dryer repair in Jacksonville usually means a burned-out heating element, a blown thermal fuse or cycling thermostat, a broken drum belt, or worn rollers and idler pulley. We fix the part and measure airflow at the vent, because a restricted vent is what kills most elements and fuses.
An electric dryer has a heating element in a can at the back, a blower that pulls air through it and the drum, and a chain of safety devices that cut the heat when air stops moving. When the vent is restricted, the air slows, the element runs hotter and the thermal fuse eventually blows. Replace the fuse without clearing the vent and it blows again.
Tumbling problems are mechanical. The belt wraps the drum, an idler pulley keeps it tight and rollers or glides carry the drum's weight. Squealing, thumping and a drum that will not turn are all in that group, and none of them are expensive to fix.
Cost
Dryer repairs are typically one part plus labor. The range below is national cost data for dryer repairs; belts and fuses sit at the low end and control boards at the high end.
Planning range from published cost data (homeadvisor.com), not a quote and not our price. Your number depends on the diagnosis and the part.
DIY or call
| Task | Safe to try yourself | Call a technician |
|---|---|---|
| No heat | Reset both halves of the double breaker | If it still runs cold |
| Long dry times | Clean the lint screen with warm soapy water | If the vent hood flap barely opens on high |
| Crushed hose | Straighten the hose behind the dryer | If the hose is foil or plastic and should be replaced |
| Will not start | Make sure the door closes firmly | If it still will not start |
The jobs this page covers
When the drum tumbles but the clothes come out cold, we test the heating element for continuity, the thermal fuse, the high-limit and cycling thermostats, and the voltage at the terminal block. Electric dryers need both legs of a 240-volt circuit to heat, so a tripped half of a double breaker gives you tumble but no heat. That is worth checking at the panel before calling. If a part has failed, we replace it, then measure the airflow at the outside hood so the new part is not cooked the same way.

A motor that hums but does not turn the drum, or a drum you can spin by hand with the door open, means a broken belt or a failed idler pulley. A dryer that does nothing at all when you press start can have a failed door switch, a blown thermal fuse on models that cut the motor, or a bad start switch. We open the front or the top, check the belt and pulley, test the motor and switches, and replace what failed. A new belt is a short repair on almost every model.
Two cycles to dry a load is almost always airflow, not a bad dryer. Lint packed in the vent, a crushed foil transition hose behind the machine, a long vent run to the roof or a flapper at the outside hood that is stuck closed all slow the air down. We measure the airflow, inspect the hose and the hood, and check the cycling thermostat and moisture sensor bars, which can end cycles early when they are coated with dryer sheet residue.
National fire data counts nearly 3,000 clothes dryer fires every year, and failure to clean is the leading cause at about a third of them. In our area the risk shows up as long vent runs to the roof on two-story homes and crushed transition hoses behind stacked units in tight laundry closets. When a thermal fuse has blown, we treat it as a warning about the vent, not just a failed part.
Step by step
Both legs of the circuit at the terminal block.
Element, fuse, thermostats, belt, pulley and motor.
Repair, then check flow at the outside hood.
We run it hot and confirm temperature and tumble.
Electric dryers we service: Whirlpool, Maytag, Samsung, LG, GE, Kenmore and Electrolux.
FAQ
A burned-out element, a blown thermal fuse, a failed thermostat or one leg of the 240-volt breaker tripped. Check the breaker first, then call.
Restricted airflow. The fuse is doing its job. Until the vent and transition hose are cleared, a new fuse will blow again.
Worn drum rollers, a dry idler pulley or worn drum glides. All are routine replacements.
Yes. Codes like Samsung hE or LG tE1 point at heating and sensor circuits, and our code tool on the homepage lists the common ones.
Yes. If the vent is the cause, we can clean it the same visit or schedule a full vent cleaning.
Also on the list
Washers that will not drain, spin, fill or stay quiet, front-load and top-load, repaired in your laundry room.
DetailsGas dryers that click without lighting or light and go out, igniters, coils and flame sensors repaired.
DetailsLaundry centers, stacked pairs and all-in-one combos repaired in tight closets without damaging walls or floors.
DetailsFull-length dryer vent cleaning from the dryer to the outside hood, including roof vents and crushed hoses.
DetailsCall and tell us whether it heats, tumbles or both. We bring the parts that symptom calls for.
Duval Appliance serves Jacksonville and the First Coast from 6504 Leona Street in northwest Jacksonville.