Dryer Repair
Electric dryers that run cold, will not tumble, squeal or take two cycles, repaired at home.
DetailsWasher repair in Jacksonville for front-load and top-load machines
A washer full of standing water is a two-hour problem if the drain pump is jammed and a weekend problem if nobody comes. Most washer failures are a pump, a lock, a belt or a bearing, and we carry the common ones.
- Front-load and top-load
- Drain pumps and door locks
- Calls answered 24/7
Updated October 2026
Quick answer
Washer repair in Jacksonville most often means a clogged or failed drain pump, a door lock that will not engage, a worn lid switch, a broken belt or coupler, or failing tub bearings. We diagnose in your laundry room, quote before work, and fix most washers on the first visit.
How we narrow down a washer problem
A washer runs a sequence: lock the door, fill, agitate or tumble, drain, spin. Where the cycle stops tells us where to look. A washer that stops full of water failed at the drain. One that hums without spinning lost its drive. One that will not start may never have confirmed the lid or door was locked.
Front-load and top-load machines share pumps and valves but fail in their own places. Front-loaders wear door boots, locks and drum bearings. Top-loaders wear lid switches, couplers, agitator dogs and suspension rods. We bring parts for both and check the error code history on newer models before taking panels off.
Warning signs
Washer warning signs
Water left in the drum
The drain pump or filter is clogged or the pump failed.
Hum but no spin
Lid or door lock, coupler, belt or motor problem.
Roaring during spin
Tub bearings are wearing out.
Leak at the door
A torn door boot on a front-loader.
Musty smell
Water trapped in the boot and filter.
Error code on the display
Look it up with our code tool, then call.
Washer full of water right now? Unplug it and call any hour.
Call (904) 907-8788The jobs this page covers
01
Washer Not Draining
Standing water at the end of a cycle is the most common washer call we get. On front-loaders we drain the tub through the small hose behind the lower access panel, then open the pump filter, where coins, hair ties, buttons and underwire are usually waiting. On top-loaders the pump sits underneath and often has a sock wrapped around the impeller. If the filter is clear and the pump hums but does not move water, the pump has failed and gets replaced. We also check the drain hose for a kink or a standpipe that is set too low.
02
Washer Not Spinning
A washer that fills and agitates but will not spin either cannot confirm the lid or door is locked, or has lost the drive between the motor and the basket. On top-loaders that usually means a lid switch, a worn motor coupler or a slipped belt. On direct-drive front-loaders it can be the hall sensor, the rotor and stator, or a control that never received the lock signal. An unbalanced load sensor can also stop spin, so we test with a balanced load before replacing parts.
03
Front-Load Door Boot and Bearing Noise
The rubber door boot on a front-loader holds a ring of water in its folds, and in a humid laundry room it grows mold and eventually tears. A torn boot leaks at the bottom of the door during the wash. A roar during spin that gets louder over weeks is the tub bearings failing, and water that reached them through a worn seal usually caused it. Boots are a short repair. Bearings mean taking the tub apart, so we quote that one against the age of the washer before starting.
04
Top-Load Lid Switch and Agitator
Top-loaders refuse to spin when the lid switch or lid lock fails, which is one of the easier repairs on the machine. An agitator that turns only one way, or not at all while the motor runs, usually has worn agitator dogs or a stripped drive coupler. Loud banging in spin on a top-loader points at the suspension rods or springs. These are all inexpensive parts, and fixing them keeps a basic top-loader going for years longer than most people expect.
Jacksonville humidity and front-load washers
Jacksonville averages close to 90 percent relative humidity in the morning, and a washer tucked into a closet or garage never fully dries out between loads in that air. That is why so many of the front-load calls we take start with an odor and end with a moldy door boot or a clogged pump filter. After any front-load repair we show you the two habits that prevent it: door ajar between loads and a monthly filter rinse.
Step by step
A washer repair, step by step
- 1
Read the codes
Newer washers store error history that points at a system.
- 2
Drain and test
We drain the tub and test the pump, lock, switch and drive.
- 3
Quote and repair
Price first, then the part is replaced.
- 4
Full cycle
A wash, drain and spin with no leaks before we go.
DIY or call
What is safe to try first
| Task | Safe to try yourself | Call a technician |
|---|---|---|
| Drain filter clog | Open and clean the front filter on a front-loader | If water still will not drain |
| Washer walking or shaking | Level the feet and rebalance the load | If it shakes with a balanced load |
| No water | Confirm both faucets are open | If valves are open and it will not fill |
| Leak under the washer | Check the hose connections are tight | If water comes from inside the cabinet |
Cost
What washer repair costs
Washer repairs are mostly single-part jobs: a pump, a lock, a switch, a coupler or a belt. The range here is national cost data for typical washer repairs. Bearing jobs on front-loaders sit at the top of it or above.
- Front-load or top-load. Front-loaders take longer to open up.
- The failed part. A lid switch costs a fraction of a control board or bearing kit.
- Water in the drum. Draining and bailing a full tub adds time.
- Stacked or in a closet. Tight installs take longer to pull out safely.
$50 to $450Typical national repair range
Planning range from published cost data (homeadvisor.com), not a quote and not our price. Your number depends on the diagnosis and the part.
WhirlpoolGESamsungLGFrigidaireMaytagKitchenAidBoschElectroluxKenmoreSub-ZeroWolfThermadorSpeed Queen
Washers we repair most: LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Electrolux and Speed Queen.
FAQ
Washing Machine Repair questions
Front-loaders trap water in the door boot and the pump filter. Leave the door ajar, clean the filter monthly and run a hot cleaning cycle. If a torn boot is holding water, it should be replaced.
Turn it off and unplug it. On a front-loader you can drain it through the small hose behind the lower front panel into a shallow pan. Then call and we will find out why it stopped draining.
On a newer, higher-end front-loader it can be. On an older or budget machine the bearing job often costs close to a new washer, and we will tell you that before starting.
An unbalanced load, a washer that is not level, or worn suspension rods, springs or shock absorbers.
Yes, along with Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Speed Queen and most other brands. The error code lookup on our homepage explains common LG and Samsung codes.
Often, when the part is a common pump, lock, switch or belt. Brand-specific boards and bearing kits may have to be ordered.
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DetailsWasher stopped mid-cycle? Call us.
Tell us where the cycle stopped and whether there is water in the drum. That points us to the right parts before we arrive.